With a few simple tweaks and customizations, you can create a fun and comfortable jumpsuit that will be perfect all year around!
In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to add a fun and flirty peplum and shoulder straps to the bodice of our Connie Pattern.
For more pics of this finished look, visit the Style Sew Me blog.
The skill level is beginner/intermediate for this project. You can create this project start to finish in approximately 4-5 hours depending on your fitting adjustments needs.
16-22 inch invisible zipper
1/2 yard lining fabric
2 3/4 - 3 yards fabric
24-30 inches boning
Flexible tape measure
Fabric marking tool
**NOTE: The two patterns we will use in this tutorial have different seam allowance. Style Sew Me Patterns uses 1/2 inch seam allowance. McCalls patterns use 5/8 inch seam allowance. Additional pieces we will create will use 1/2 inch seam allowance. It will all come together properly at the end.
1. Layout fabric with the fold facing you and selvedges (finished edges along the length of the fabric) are away from you.
2. Place all pattern pieces on the fabric according to their directions.
3. Cut all bodice pieces from Style Sew Me Connie Dress pattern.
4. Cut pant front and back from McCalls 7608 view B.
5. Measure for shoulder straps. Using a flexible measuring tape, measure from the top of your bust at underarm level, over your shoulder to the bottom of your shoulder blade. Add 1 inch to that measurement and write it down.
6. To cut shoulder straps, draw two rectangles 2 1/2 inches wide by your shoulder measurement using chalk or other fabric safe marking tool.
7. Measure for peplum. Using a flexible measuring tape, measure yourself from one side seam, across your body at upper bust level, to the other side seam. Divide that number by 6.28 and write down your result. This will be referred to as your radius.
8. On your folded fabric, create another fold. You should now have one fold facing you and your selvedges and another fold on the opposite end of the fabric.
9. Place your ruler or tape measure at the bottom left corner of your fabric closest to you. Measure the length of your radius and mark with chalk.
10. Rotate your ruler a small amount and continue marking the length of your radius until you have completed that corner of the fabric. Connect your markings to create a solid line.
11. Place your ruler to lay at radius marking you just created. Measure 8 inches from that line and mark just as you have done for your radius.
12. Using fabric scissors, cut out your fabric on those two lines. You will have to pieces of folded fabric.
13. To sew your shoulder straps, place two strips of fabric with right sides facing. Stitch along both lengths using 1/2 inch seam allowance.
14. Trim seam allowance on shoulder straps.
15. Turn shoulder straps right side out and press flat.
16. Unfold both peplum pieces and place them right sides facing.
17. Stitch one end of the peplum using 1/2 inch seam allowance. Press seam allowance flat and finish raw edges.
18. Sew a narrow hem around the bottom of the peplum. Fold and press 1/4 inch around the hem. Fold and press another 1/4 inch, then stitch.
19. Finish raw edges on open ends of peplum and hem at 1/2 inch. OR sew a narrow hem.
Assemble bodice using 1/2 inch seam allowance according to pattern instruction.
20. Right sides facing, stitch side front to front on bodice. Repeat on remaining side front.
21. Right sides facing, stitch side back to side front on bodice. Repeat on remaining side back.
22. Right sides facing, stitch back to side back. Repeat on remaining side back.
23. Press all seam allowances.
24. Repeat steps 20-22 on lining fabric.
25. To prepare your lining for boning, press your two front princess seams on your bodice towards the side bodice.
26. Cut two strips of boning and casing the length of your princess seam. (We will trim the actual boning in a later step.)
27. Remove the boning from the muslin casing.
28. Lay the casing over the princess seam allowance. Edge stitch the casing to the lining through all layers along both long ends. (Tip: Follow the stitching already on the casing.) Stitch across the bottom of the casing to close one end.
29. Insert the boning back into the casing. Stitch the top end to close the casing. Repeat on remaining boning.
30. Place wrong side of peplum over the right side of bodice, aligning the center front seam of the peplum with the center front neckline of the bodice. You should be seeing the right side of both pieces. Baste together.
31. Center one end of the shoulder straps over the princess seam, but on top of the peplum. Baste together.
32. You have two options on positioning your back straps for your preference. For a wider back opening as pictured on my photos, lay the remaining end of your shoulder strap at the center of the side back piece. For a more narrow back opening, lay the remaining end of your shoulder strap over the side back and center back seam. The same side of the shoulder strap that is stitched to the bodice front should be the same side of the strip stitched to the bodice back. It may appear twisted, but when the bodice is assembled, it will lay flat on your shoulders. Baste in place.
33. Right sides facing, stitch lining to bodice across the top edge. Trim seam allowance.
Assemble pants using 5/8 inch seam allowance according to pattern instruction.
34. Form and stitch pleats in pant front and pant back. Baste pleats in place.
35. Stitch pant front at center front seam. Press seam allowance.
36. On pant back baste center back seam to dot. Change stitch length to normal length. Backstitch and continue sewing to the end. Press seam allowance.
37. Right sides facing, stitch front and back pant together at inseam and side seams. Press seam allowance.
38. Fold bodice lining out of the way.
39. Attach pant to bodice only. Stitch. Press seam allowance towards bodice.
40. With lining still folded up out of the way and right sides facing, baste center pack seam of jumpsuit from top of bodice dot on pant. Press seam allowance flat.
41. Place open zipper face down on seam allowance. Pin zipper tap to seam allowance only. Stitch. Repeat on remaining zipper tape.
42. Remove basting stitch and test zipper.
43. Press up 1/2 inch on lining.
43. Flip lining over bodice with right sides facing and pressed hem folded up. Stitch to zipper. Trim top corner.
44. Turn lining to inside and slip stitch lining to waist seam allowance for a clean finish. Alternatively, you may pin the lining seam allowance to the inside of the jumpsuit and topstitch it in place using a matching thread as this stitching will show on the outside of the jumpsuit.
45. Press up 1 1/4 inch hem on pants. Stitch and press.